Brazil's Bodysurfing Ambassador'As I approach its end and see the man’s yellow flippers there, waiting, the water sucks me back into the tunnel. My heart beats hard and heavy — dum-dum, dum-dum — as the seconds tick by.'
'As I approach its end and see the man’s yellow flippers there, waiting, the water sucks me back into the tunnel. My heart beats hard and heavy — dum-dum, dum-dum — as the seconds tick by.'